Editor's note, October 6, 2026: this article was reviewed and rewritten in our accuracy check. An earlier version contained a ranked list of issues and repair costs we could not trace to a source; they have been removed or replaced with figures from the sources listed at the end of the article.
A home inspection is your chance to find out what you're buying before you're committed. In Ontario it is also an unregulated service: the Home Inspection Act, 2017 received Royal Assent but has never been proclaimed in force, so there is no provincial licence for home inspectors. Choosing the inspector, and knowing what to ask, is up to you.
Choosing an inspector
- Ask about training, professional association membership and how many inspections of similar homes they have done.
- Ask for a sample report and what the inspection excludes (most are visual and non-invasive).
- Ask whether they carry errors-and-omissions and liability insurance.
- Attend the inspection, so you can ask questions on the spot.
Electrical
Knob-and-tube wiring was used in homes from the early 1900s to the 1940s. The Electrical Safety Authority (ESA) says existing knob-and-tube may remain if it is protected by a 15-amp fuse or breaker, no outlets have been added to overload the circuit, and the visible conductors are in good condition. ESA recommends an assessment by a Licensed Electrical Contractor. Some insurers won't cover a home with knob-and-tube until it is replaced, so call your insurer before you firm up. ESA also has guidance on aluminum branch wiring, found in some homes from the 1960s and 1970s.
Insulation and asbestos
Older homes may have vermiculite attic insulation, some of which contains asbestos. The Government of Canada advises not to disturb it; if it is sealed off and left alone, the risk is low. Plan for professional removal before any renovation that would disturb it. Asbestos can also be present in older pipe wrap and some flooring.
Radon
Radon is a natural radioactive gas that can build up in basements. Health Canada's guideline is 200 Bq/m³ as an annual average, measured with a long-term test of at least 91 days (three to twelve months is better). An inspection can't measure it in an afternoon, so plan to test after you move in, and reduce it if your result is above the guideline.
Water and the building envelope
- Basement moisture: staining, efflorescence, a musty smell or fresh paint on lower walls.
- Grading and downspouts that direct water toward the foundation.
- Roof: the age and condition of the shingles, flashing and attic ventilation.
- Plumbing: the material of the supply lines and drains, and the age of the water heater.
- Foundation cracks: ask the inspector which are typical shrinkage and which need a structural engineer.
Heating, cooling and fuel tanks
Note the age of the furnace and air conditioner and ask for service records. If a home has or had an oil furnace, ask whether there is an above- or below-ground oil tank; insurers ask about tanks, and buried tanks can be costly to remove.
Using the report
- If you included an inspection condition, the report can lead to a price adjustment, a repair agreed in writing, or walking away within the condition period.
- In competing offers, some buyers inspect before offer night instead. See our competing offers guide.
- For a condo, also have your lawyer review the status certificate.
Frequently asked questions
Should I include an inspection condition?
If you can, yes: it lets you walk away or renegotiate if the inspection finds something serious. In competing offers, some buyers inspect before offer night instead so they can make a firm offer knowing what they're buying.
Does an inspection cover the sewer line?
Usually not. A camera inspection of the drain from the house to the street is a separate service; consider it for older homes with large trees nearby.
Read our home inspection guide, or ask Zara, Summitly's AI virtual agent, for a checklist for a specific property.
